The kitchen here doesn't begin at the stove, but in the field. Vegetables, herbs, grain, eggs and meat come, for the most part, straight from the estate. Matthias Gfrörer turns them into a country cooking that is as precise as it is unfussy, one that puts produce quality above staging and thinks regionality through to its logical end.
Kaiserhappen recommendation
Rural elegance, warm tones, considered indulgence. Set among greenhouse, farm shop and pasture, Gutsküche feels like a counter-proposal to the city. The restored estate buildings, the view onto green fields and the relaxed mood create a place where farming and dining become directly tangible.
Before or after the meal, be sure to set aside time for the estate. Farm shop, bakery, greenhouses and pastures make visible what elsewhere exists only on menus: where good food actually begins. A culinary excursion into the countryside that's worth the trip - about 40 minutes' drive from the centre, with hotels nearby too.
Rebecca Gfrörer curates one of the region's most exciting biodynamically-minded wine lists. The focus is on characterful wines from Germany, Austria and France, complemented by carefully developed non-alcoholic pairings.
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