Hamburg's foremost address for fish, shellfish and crustaceans — an institution, run by the Kowalke family, led by Dirk Kowalke since 1997. Right on the Fischmarkt, with a window view onto the Elbe and the harbour. Those seeking the house classics will find a remarkably timeless kitchen here, in a distinctive setting. Reservations strongly recommended.
Foto: Fischereihafen Restaurant/Presse„Classic fish cookery that tends its evergreens: warm smoked eel fillet on scrambled eggs and rye bread — worth the trip for that alone. Lobster fricassee on potato mousse with a deep, creamy lobster sauce, a whisper of cognac, straight out of the eighties. Alongside, Labskaus with a fried egg and rollmops, and perfectly seared turbot.“
Like an elegant officers' mess: plenty of dark wood, gold and brass, paintings of the rough sea, thick carpets, liveried waiters serving without a sound - the polished cloches lifted all at once. Photo collages of three decades of prominent guests line the walls. Hanseatic restraint, though it never turns stiff.
Right next to Hamburg's Fischmarkt, in Altona, directly on the Elbe. The best tables stand by the window: a view of the harbour at night, container ships passing by and cruise liners close enough to touch. A setting as much a part of the house as the classics on the menu.
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