For decades, the Vienna has been one of the great classics of Hamburg's dining scene. Austrian cuisine, French bistro sensibility and Mediterranean influences merge here into a style all its own – accomplished, timeless and with a loyal following. Reservations have only recently become possible.
Kaiserhappen recommendation
Austrian classics meet French bistro cooking and seasonal daily specials. The Wiener Schnitzel is famous, but those in the know keep an eye on the changing recommendations. Salad with calf's tongue or gratinated calf's tripe show that offal cookery, rare as it has become, is kept refreshingly modern and vivid here.
A proper bistro in the best sense: packed, lively and full of regulars. The small bar, the tightly packed tables and the secluded courtyard with its garden terrace create an atmosphere in which strangers quickly strike up conversation.
Otherwise, the Vienna resists any pigeonholing. Austria, France, Italy or Germany – whatever is in season and convinces on the plate gets cooked. Since the late 1970s, this former artists' café has grown into one of the city's most distinctive bistros, without losing its unpretentious character.
The carefully assembled wine list accompanies the classic bistro cooking with real ease. Especially nice: the aperitif often begins right outside the door, while you wait for the next free table – at the Vienna, that's long since become a ritual.
Küche 18–22 Uhr, Mo Ruhetag
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